The Swedish Krafsskiva (Crayfish Party) in August

The krafsskiva (crayfish party) is a Swedish late-summer tradition that takes place in August when the crayfish season opens, and it involves: crayfish boiled in dill-spiced brine and served cold by the bucketful, dark bread with strong cheese, Vasterbotten cheese pie, paper tablecloths printed with crayfish motifs, paper hats, paper lanterns, and an elaborate social ritual around schnapps drinking that includes songs (snapsvisor) that must be sung before each toast. The whole thing happens outdoors if possible, in a garden or on a jetty, in the long warm August evenings when the Swedish light lasts until ten at night.

The Swedish relationship with crayfish is ancient and slightly obsessive. Crayfish were so popular in the 19th century that the government banned their consumption for most of the year to protect the species. The prohibition (now lifted for farmed crayfish) transformed the August season opening into a nationally significant event. Swedes who live abroad return home for the krafsskiva. Restaurants are fully booked for the second and third weeks of August. The correct schnapps is aquavit, typically a caraway-flavoured Skane Akvavit.

Stockholm in late summer is one of the best times to visit: the archipelago (30,000 islands stretching east into the Baltic) is accessible by ferry from central Stockholm, the daylight is extraordinary, and the city's outdoor culture — the rooftop bars, the lakeside swimming spots, the islands of Djurgarden and Lidingo — is in full effect. The Vasa Museum (a perfectly preserved 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage and was raised in 1961) and the Fotografiska photography museum are essential regardless of season.